The ICW
The Belt Line Railroad Bridge - The first of many, many bridges we would travel under over the next thousand miles
Folks, we are finally on our way! After hanging tight in Norfolk for five days, waiting for the weather to pass. We are starting our way south on the Intracoastal Waterway. The Intracoastal Waterway (from henceforth will be referred to as “the ICW”) is a 3,000 mile inland waterway along the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coasts of the United States. It consists of natural inlets, saltwater rivers, bays, sounds, and artificial canals. Many people take the ICW because it provides a navigable route without the many hazards of travel on the open sea. 1
During the fall, many boaters partake in the “Great Migration” using the ICW to travel south towards warmer climates. Because this passage is so well traveled, there are tips and quirks we have picked up and learned along the way.
When we mentioned to a few friends that we were heading south on the ICW, nearly every one of them mentioned the “Slow Pass”. The ICW is made up of a number of canals, or “ditches”, narrow cuts through marshy land where there is limited space on either side. These are generally no wake zones, but not always. In our slow-moving sailboat, we do not need to worry about blazing by someone, but if you own a 50’ fishing boat with a lot of horsepower, you can kick up a lot of wake. The slow pass is a maneuver in which the faster boat hails you on the radio and requests a “slow pass” to starboard or port. You promptly respond by saying “yes, feel free to pass to port, I will also slow down a bit to make it easier for you to pass.” Then the faster boat will say, “thank you for the courtesy, have a safe trip.” Or something similar. It is all very civilized and pleasant.
The Independence - the largest vessel that gave us a very friendly “slow pass”
Occasionally, you will get someone who does not know (or let’s be real, cares to follow) these unwritten rules. When this happens, you feel like you are in the scene from Monty Python and the Holy Grail, where the knight is running and running and never makes any progress until -BAM- Lancelot stabs everyone at the wedding.
Or in this case, you look behind you and see the wake being kicked up, so you grab your radio waiting for a call. The boat gets a little closer, still waiting. The boat gets a little closer, still waiting. Then all of a sudden, the faster boat will go blazing by, causing a huge wake, and knocking over your tea and anything else that wasn’t properly stowed below decks. This is generally followed by “hey so and so, next time please provide us a curtesy on the radio before passing” or my personal favorite, “you guys are real a** holes, you know that?” Or even for the unsuspecting delivery crew, “I know the owner of that boat and I’m sure they would love to hear about this!” (All real examples we have heard so far)
We’ve also learned that timing bridge openings is important. Some bridges are fixed, but others only open at certain times. Some open on the hour, others on demand, still others don’t open during rush hour. When you have ten bridge crossings in a day, (the most we’ve done in one day was 26) you don’t want to go too slow or too fast because you could be waiting a while for the next opening.
Sunrise under one of the bridges in Virginia on the Intracoastal Waterway
Most bridge tenders are very nice and want to get you through as soon as possible. This was the case for the Alligator River Bridge. When we approached, we saw that a few other sailboats were going through, so we hailed the bridge (VHF Channel 13 in NC). The guy was very apologetic and said the drivers in the cars sometimes yell choice words at him and would not be able to stay open for us. So, we slowed down, he cleared the traffic, and promptly opened the bridge for us. If anyone works for the State of NC and knows that guy, give him a major thanks from us. He was super helpful and friendly.
Another great tip we picked up through a Facebook group. We’ve learned that the AquaMaps app is super helpful. The app provides Army Corps of Engineer depth survey data and overlays it on the nautical charts allowing you to see very granular depth detail in real time. By using this data and our Garmin chart plotter, we were able to avoid major shoaling areas. And when sometimes a few feet are the difference between an uneventful pass and hitting bottom, this tool was worth every penny.
Finally, we’ve also learned that boaters and cruisers are extremely friendly and helpful. They are willing to sit down and share so much information. And if you need anything, they are willing to help. We’ve met so many new friends within the past few days and can’t thank them enough for all of the valuable information they have so freely given. If you find yourself in need, just ask, you never know the kindness people have until you do.
